Thursday, November 1, 2012

Around Cradle Mountain Tasmania - Part 3: Lake Rodway to Dove Lake

Thirteen people sleeping in a single room makes for a restless morning. As people started to wake up I ran to the little window to check what the conditions were like. What I saw out that little window was not what I had imagined. After the previous day’s rain and then snow I was expecting soggy looking country, perhaps a dusting, not 10-15cm of fresh snow!

Good morning, fresh snow with some sun from the window of Scott-Kilvert Hut

Looking toward Cradle Mountain

I had always known that it snows in Tasmania, however, I had never imagined that it could snow so much in a single night. The scene, had it been in the Snowy Mountains on the mainland where we live, would have had me grabbing my skis for some powder turns.

A snowy Scott-Kilvert Hut

The eastern face of Cradle Mountain

Cold dash for water

Snow and the water flowing from the previous day’s downpour

In an attempt to keep the hut tidy, the kids and guides had the night before, left all their wet gear and boots outside on the front veranda. This proved to be a rookie error and all their gear was covered in snow and frozen. It’s never pleasant sticking your warm foot into an icey cold frozen boot.

Frozen boots, gaiters and gloves, not much fun

We got in our warm gear and hit the track. We were hoping to make good time but the snow had completely covered the track in places making it hard to find our way. The storm had also not entirely passed and we were intermittently getting battered by snow and wind.

Hitting the track near Lake Rodway

In normal conditions the trail back to civilisation would take around 3 hours, it was looking like it would take us a bit longer. It wasn't helped by me constantly stopping to take photos of the incredible scenery.

Hynns Tarn

Little Horn at the eastern face of Cradle Mountain

Hairy spiky tree and a hairy spiky hiker!

Snow depth on one of the numerous boardwalks

Don’t slip on the boards

Incredible hiking through the snow

We passed the famous Artists Pool and I couldn't resist pausing for another photo.

Artists Pool, Cradle Mountain

We eventually made our way around the Little Horn and the eastern face of Cradle Mountain until we got to the Rangers Hut, an emergency use only shelter.

Rangers Hut

From here the track split, either turn left to the Face Trail and then Dove Lake or turn right to Hansons Peak which also eventually leads to Dove Lake. I had heard that the Face Trail could be a bit ‘hairy’, probably not a good idea in a blizzard, but the weather also looked pretty rough towards Hansons Peak. We took the trail to Hansons Peak hoping that the inevitable descent to Dove Lake would be ‘gentle’.

Holly heads off to Hansons Peak as the sun pokes out for moment

I guess the name should have given it away, a peak would normally be a place higher than the surrounding country. We climbed, and I mean literally, climbed, up towards Hansons Peak. The trees that we had been walking amongst gave way to exposed alpine and we had to pay close attention to where we stepped as the track was icey, unstable and covered in snow. Making for even more pleasant walking conditions, an incredibly strong wind was battering us as we traversed the ridge line.

There is a trail under there somewhere, approaching Hansons Peak high above Dove Lake

The poles that we were following suddenly disappeared off the side of the ridge down towards Dove Lake. It seems our hike in Tasmania would have one more surprise for us, a nearly vertical rock scramble down, what I would call if I was skiing, a couloir. The couloir was acting as a wind tunnel and we could barely stand up at the top. We started to climb, our hands were slipping on the icey cold chain. Holly was not enjoying it and she was not impressed when I whipped the camera out for some photos and some footage.

Looking back up the first pitch of the Hansons Peak rock scramble

Middle section Holly battles the blizzard

The Hansons Peak rock scramble from the bottom

We eventually made it to the bottom of the scramble, it was pretty wild Holly has since reminisced that she “felt lucky to be alive”. One of Holly’s gloves was saturated from the icey chain. I gave her one of my spare dry socks and she did the rest of the hike with a sock hand.

Continuing along the trail, cold and a little bit rattled, the sun made a welcome and brief appearance and we took a moment to eat some chocolate.

The sun comes out, Hansons Peak, Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake

Looking for a spot to rest and have some chocolate

All smiles again resting above Dove Lake as the weather sets in again

We made it to the Dove Lake trail fairly quickly after our break. When we came across a family of day trippers, our ordeal was abruptly over. The closer we got to the Dove Lake car park, where a bus would whisk us back to the visitor centre, the more day trippers we came across. Most looked at us, wet dirty and covered in snow, with disbelief. Many asked where we had been and what why we were hiking during a blizzard. I'm not sure I have an answer, but it was a radical trip!

Snowing until the end, the last bridge that takes you to the Dove Lake car park

Looking back on our hike a few weeks later, it truly was one of the most amazing trips I have done. It had everything, beautiful scenery, adventure, physically demanding at times and a few testing moments.

Heading back to civilisation

And to finish, a short vid of our adventure.


  1. Tough hiking conditions, but it sure looks beautiful! An adventure for sure!

  2. Thanks Linda, the whole trip was such an awesome experience.

  3. Really good 3 part TR, Tom. Thanks.

    Amazing that guides left boots and gloves outside in snow. Kids gloves as well?

    Oh, and tell Holly Sock Hand she did great.


  4. Haha Holly is very proud of herself. The guides left boots, gloves, gaiters and shell gear outside, the 7 kids included! pretty amazing really.

    Thanks for the comment, hope your having a good time in Canada.

  5. Guides leaving wet gloves and boots outside in the snow - their own and those of the children in their care - must have been a negligent oversight, not a conscious decision. Both are bad, but the later is inexcusable.

  6. ^ my comment, not anon. :)


  7. Thanks for documenting your trip! My husband and I made the same trip in the same conditions but were too anxious to stop and take photos between the Ranger's Hut and Dove Lake Carpark due to the blizzardy conditions up there. So grateful to find you took the photos we did not take. Now people can see what we experienced! How scary was that chainy descent!?